I completely agree. I've seen this film a few times over the years hoping to like it, but I never enjoy the story or the characters. It'll be a long time before I sit through this one again.
This movie has a few interesting moments, but I think it's the worst Lewton film by a considerable margin. As a WWII-era film, it plays like a heavy-handed political allegory warning against corrupt dictators. Pretty basic and straightforward for Lewton.
The film takes forever to get going, and the characters are poorly drawn from the start. The third mate is so dull; the same actor does a somewhat better job in The Body Snatcher, but he's incredibly bland here. The captain isn't mysterious; he's a caricature.
By the time we get to "the captain is trying to kill me," it feels like we've skipped several steps. In fact, the whole thing feels like a Heart of Darkness riff that fails to say anything interesting.
Lewton's films never lack for atmosphere, and that's true here, too. But given how good his films typically are, this one is a colossal disappointment.
5/10 on atmosphere alone.
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